Crafts tutorial: Fruity Trivets and Pot Holders, free crochet patterns

 Crafts tutorial: Fruity Trivets and Pot Holders, free crochet patterns

Late last summer we had dinner with our friend Mrs. Halby on her porch. She paraded many delicious plates of food out to us, among them, a hot baking dish of roasted fingerling potatoes. Of course, I was interested in the potatoes, but I was even more captivated by the adorable pot holder Mrs. Halby had used to transport them. It was a crocheted slice of watermelon that it turns out had been a gift from Mexico. I vowed to make my own version, and finally here it is, just in time for this summer's outdoor dinners.

Update!

This pattern is now available as a knitting pattern, too!  You can find it right here.

We've also got Knit or Crochet Fruity Trivets + Pot Holder Kits that include both patterns and all of the yarn! You can find our kits right here.

Materials

NOTES: To make all three sets of Trivets and Pot Holders, you only need one skein of each color. You will also have enough yarn to make an orange, lime and watermelon Trivet and 2 Pot Holders (or 2 Trivets or 4 Pot Holders).

Orange

• 3 skeins of Blue Sky Alpaca's Worsted Cotton, 100% Cotton. These colors are, from the left, Poppy (#601), Dandelion (#638) and Bone (#80). This last color is part of Blue Sky's organic collection and is located here on our web site.

• A size K crochet hook.

• A removable stich marker.

Lime

• 3 skeins of Blue Sky Alpaca's Worsted Cotton, 100% Cotton. These colors are, from the left, Pickle (#633), Lemongrass (#607) and Bone (#80). This last color is part of Blue SKy's Organic collection and is located here on our web site.

• A size K crochet hook.

• A removable stich marker.

Watermelon

• 3 skeins of Blue Sky Alpaca's Worsted Cotton, 100% Cotton. These colors are, from the left, Pickle (#633), Lotus (#617) and Toffee (#623). 

• A size K crochet hook.

• A removable stich marker.

Patterns

Gauge

2 3/4 single crochets = 1 inch

Finished Sizes

9 inches in diameter

Trivet Pattern

Note

The yarn is used doubled throughout this pattern, which is a lot easier than it may sound. Because this yarn tends to cling to itself, I didn't experience any problems with splitting.

To double the yarn you can either pull from both the center and the outside of the ball, or you can wind the skein into two even balls and pull from each of those.

The Center

With the Main Color, chain 6 and slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring.

Round 1: Make 12 single crochets (sc) into the ring.

Note: Mark the first stitch of the next round with a removable marker. Reposition the marker at the beginning of each round to mark the new first stitch.

Round 2: *1 sc into next stitch, 2 sc into next stitch, repeat from * to end of round. (18 stitches)

Round 3: *1 sc into next 2 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, repeat from * to end of round. (24 stitches)

Round 4: *1 sc into next 3 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, repeat from * to end of round. (30 stitches)

Continue to work in this pattern, each round adding one stitch between the increases until there are 9 stitches between the increases. Do not make the last single crochet of the last round . (65 stitches)

Change Colors

Still using the Main Color, do the first half of the final single crochet of the round.

Now using the Contrast Color, finish the single crochet by pulling the new yarn through the two loops on the hook. Cut the Main Color yarn.

The Rind

Using the Contrast Color, continue to crochet the circle in the same pattern:

Next Round: *1 sc into next 10 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, repeat from * to end of round. (70 stitches)

Next Round: *1 sc into next 11 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, repeat from * to end of round. (77 stitches)

Final Round: Slip stitch into each single crochet.

Cut the yarn and pull it though the final stitch.

The Seeds

Fold a 72 inch piece of the Accent Color in half, and thread it onto a tapestry needle.

1. Bring the needle up from the back to the front, coming out of one of the natural holes in the work. Leave a six inch tail in the back that you can later weave in.

2. Bring the needle to the back through a hole two rounds up and slightly to the left of the starting point.

3. Now bring the needle to the front through the hole directly to the right of the last entry point.

4. Next bring the needle to the back through the original starting hole.

5. Bring the needle to the front at the top left of the "V".

6. Bring the needle to the back through the top right of the "V".

7. Again, bring the needle to the front through the original starting point.

8. Now bring the needle to the back through the stitch at the center top of the triangle.

9. Complete the seed by bringing the needle to the front, again, through the original starting point.

This last step is so that the back of the Trivet looks as nice as the front. Here is the finished seed on the back side...

Sew the needle through the stitches to the next place you want to start a seed. Make sure that the Accent Color doesn't pop through anywhere!

Repeat these steps until you have sewn/sown as many seeds as you like.

Weave in the ends, block your Trivet and move on to the Pot Holder!

Pot Holder Pattern

The Center

With the Main Color doubled (see the Note at the beginning of the Trivet Pattern), chain 2.

Row 1: Make 3 single crochets (sc) into the first chain.

Chain 1 and turn the work. (It doesn't matter if you turn the work toward or away from you as long as you are consistent throughout the project.)

Row 2: Make 2 sc into each stitch. (6 stitches)

Chain 1 and turn the work.

Row 3: *1 sc into next stitch, 2 sc into next stitch, repeat from * to end of row. (9 stitches)

Chain 1 and turn.

Row 4: *1 sc into next 2 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, repeat from * to end of row. (12 stitches)

Chain 1 and turn.

Row 5: *1 sc into next 3 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, repeat from * to end of row. (15 stitches)

Chain 1 and turn.

Row 6: *1 sc into next 4 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, repeat from * to end of row. (18 stitches)

Continue to work in this pattern, each row adding one stitch between the increases until there are 9 stitches between the increases. Do not make the Chain 1 of the final row. (33 stitches)

Change Colors

Cut the Main Color yarn and use the Contrast Color to make the Chain 1 of the last row.

Turn the work.

The Rind

Using the Contrast Color, continue to crochet the semi-circle in the same pattern:

Next Row: *1 sc into next 10 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, repeat from * to end of row. (36 stitches)

Chain 1 and turn.

Next Row: *1 sc into next 11 stitches, 2 sc into next stitch, repeat from * to end of row. (39 stitches)

Chain 1 and turn.

Final Row: Slip stitch into each single crochet.

At the end of the row, chain 6.

Insert the hook back into the starting point of the chain and slip stitch.

Cut the yarn and pull it through the last loop.

The Seeds

Use the Accent Color to make the seeds, as explained above in the "Seed" section of the Trivet Pattern.

Weave in the ends, block your Pot Holder, and you have a set!

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Craft ideas: Tuxedo Pillow DIY

Craft ideas: Tuxedo Pillow DIY

I'm not quite as obsessed as Sherry over at Young House love is about pillow covers but these ones might turn the tide.

Check these out

Via E Tells Tales

E is great. You can buy them at her Etsy store or you can make one yourself following her easy tutorial. I'm cheep so I made mine. I wont bore you with the details since she explains how to make them better than I could but I will show you how I modified mine. Here he is:

See the difference? I left off the bow. I think it makes it a bit more masculine (which my husband appreciates) and I have it to add later if I want. I'm calling mine the tuxedo pillow. This is for the master bed, maybe it needs a friend? Something with ruffles? I used a heavy linen and I love the texture that it lends, a perfect accent pillow. Even if you are a beginner sewer this is super easy and fun to do. In fact I made more bow things (more on that later)

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Craft present for kids: Crochet Baby Cap Two Pom Poms - Option A

If you are a beginner, you can find a playlist for the basic crochet stitches by clicking on this link. Beginner Crochet Stitches 

Note: If you made this cap with the pom poms, it does have small yarn tails that may come out of the yarn pom-poms. Please keep this in mind around small babies and children.
Written by Teresa Richardson
Skill Level - Beginner/Intermediate
Abbreviations
DC - Double Crochet
HDC - Half Double Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch
FPDC - Front Post Double Crochet
BPDC - Back Post Double Crochet

DefinitionsFront Post Double Crochet - Put your hook to the right of the stitch, around the post and up the opposite side.  Complete the double crochet.
Left Hand Front Post Double Crochet - Put your hook to the left of the stitch, around the post and up the opposite side. Complete the double crochet.

Back Post Double Crochet - Put your hook to the backside right of the stitch, around the front, to the left. Wrap the yarn over, pull it through, complete the stitch.
Left Hand Back Post Double Crochet - Put your hook to the backside left of the stitch, around the front, to the right. Wrap the yarn over, pull it through, complete the stitch. 

Continual Round - Put your hook through the top of the first stitch and work the single crochet or stitch that you are working.  This technique is worked instead of joining, to eliminate the seam that will show up when you join rounds.

Yarn Marker -  Marker for the first stitch of each round. I use scrap pieces of yarn to mark the first stitch.  
Work a loose chain of 42. Make sure the chain is not twisted. Join with the beginning chain.


Round 1: Work a chain 1, this will not count as a stitch.  In the same chain, work one double crochet. Work one DC in each chain around for a total of 42 double crochet. Join with the beginning stitch.


Round 2-3: Work a chain 1, this will not count as a stitch.  We will be working a series of post stitches. *Work a front post double crochet. (see definitions above for details on how to work the FPDC) Work a back post double crochet for each of the next two stitches. (see definitions above for details on how to work the BPDC, continue around from * for a total of 42 stitches. Join with the beginning stitch. Cut the yarn and change color.

Round 4-11: Attach the new color of yarn to the top of any stitch. Work a chain one, single crochet in the same stitch.  Work 1 SC in each stitch around for a total of 42. Work the continual round.  You may want to use a yarn marker to mark what would be the first stitch in each round.  Upon completion, cut a long length of tail. This will be used to sew the top of the cap shut. 


Thread your tapestry needle and turn the cap inside out. You will skip 6-7 stitches on each side, sewing the top, center shut. Knot and secure the strand when you get to the to the other side.  Hide the tail between the stitches. Flip the cap right side out.

Cap Corners: Attach the yarn to any stitch in the corner of the stitches that were left un-worked.  Work three rounds of single crochet. This is to make the corner stand up a little higher than the rest of the cap.  Both sides will be done the same way. Slip stitch to finish off, cut off some extra yarn.  Weave the tail through the last round, pull the top shut. 

Attaching Pom-Pom: You will run your needle through the center of the pom-pom 5-10 times making sure it is secure. When you go back through, make sure it is slightly over from where you came up so you don't pull your yarn through.  When it is secure, make a knot underneath the ball. Hide the tail between the stitches.

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Sewing tutorial: Tiered Tote Bag with Rosette Embellishment

One of my favorite Christmas gifts I've made this year is the Tiered Tote Bag. It turned out so stinkin' cute that I had a moment of weakness when I almost considered keeping it for myself. Alas, I love the aunt I created it for, so off it went. At least I'll get to visit it every year. :) 

Sewing tutorial:  Tiered Tote Bag with Rosette Embellishment

To make one for yourself (and I highly recommend you do!), you'll need:

1 canvas tote bag - I got mine at Hobby Lobby for $1.99
fabric for ruffles - 5 strips, cut to 5 1/2" wide, and bolt length (no trimming needed)
contrasting fabric for rosette
clasp/pin to attach rosette to bag
hot glue

First, you'll need to serge all the edges of the 5 strips. If you don't have a serger, don't despair. Simply fold under all the edges 1/4", twice, and sew a straight stitch, locking your threads by backstitching when you start and stop. If you've used a serger, now take one strip and fold under both long sides 1/4" once and sew a straight stich, backstitching at beginning and end to lock threads (If you didn't use a serger, you've already done this! woo hoo!). Now take the remaining four strips and repeat, but only on one long side of each strip.

Now you've got 5 strips, all with serged (or folded under seams) edges. Four of the strips have one long side folded under and one long serged edge. One of the strips has two long sides folded under. Got it? K. Now we ruffle.

There are a lot of ways to do this. Some prefer gathering the fabric by sewing two wide running stitches and pulling one of the threads. It's a lot better way to create ruffles because you can control and adjust the length of your fabric and density of the ruffles...but I personally despise that method. It takes up too much of my time and the thread inevitably breaks. I dream of owning a ruffle foot attachment for my sewing machine, but until then, I just ruffle the wrong way. It drives my mother crazy because she's a real seamstress. The kind that does it all correctly and measures it all out. She's also the one that gets me out of the sewing jams I inevitably get into because of my aforementioned lack of measuring and doing things the wrong way. (Love you, Mom!)
If you're lazy like me, gather your fabric underneath your presser foot and sew on top of the gathers, very slowly. You'll do this along the serged edge of four of the strips of fabric, and one of the folded under edges of the remaining strip.

The strip with both long edges folded under will be your top tier. Line this strip up with the opening of the bag and pin in place. Sew a seam 1/4" from the opening of the bag, backstitching at beginning and end to lock threads. Be sure to line up the ends of your fabric at one of the bag's side seams. It will help create a more professional look.

Where your fabric ends meet, tuck under the edge of one end. You'll sew these two ends together and it will help hide the seam.

You can do this step now, or wait to do all five layers at one time. See where my finger is separating the fabric? That's the two ends that make up the side seam in the picture above. Pull the fabric away from the tote bag and sew the ends together to make one continuous ruffle. Backstitch!

Now you move on to the next tier. Pin it in place so that its top serged edge will be covered by the first tier. You should measure. I did not. You'll see how that worked out for me in a minute.

Be careful not to catch other parts of the tote bag in this seam. This gets a little trickier with each subsequent tier.

Repeat until all five tiers are sewn in place and your side seams are sewn together so that you've got five separate continuous ruffles.

This is my bag, flipped inside out. See how my seams look so pretty when I'm close up?

But here's the ugly truth... Like I said, measure! The beauty of this bag though, is that even sloppy imperfections (as illustrated below) aren't visible. My kind of project!

The bag is super cute by this point, but it could really use a littlepop! I've made rosettes before, but I wanted something a little different, something a little fuller than the typical rosette. look like this:

Now hot glue a clasp or pin to that circle backing.

And now you've got one of my favorite rosette styles ever!

Since it's pinned to the tote bag, it can be removed for washing, or stolen to accesorize an outfit when you just need a little something extra.

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Halloween crafts : Polymer Clay Spider Tutorial

Halloween crafts : Polymer Clay Spider Tutorial

Halloween decorating is a lot of fun for me. I was looking around my house this year and realized that 90% of my decorations were made my me! That is cool! So, in order to pass along some of the creative juices, I thought I'd share how I make my little clay spiders. They are simple and cute and fun to stick everywhere. (they will break however, so keep them away from little hands- which means they are at least 3 feet off the ground in my house ;) )

The very first step is to condition your clay. This means to squish it over and over and over and over and over.....you get the idea....until it's nice and soft and warm. To make this a bit easier, I put the package of clay in my pocket for a few minutes until I'm ready for it, this makes it much easier to get it started. Once it's conditioned (btw I start with just enough to make 1 spider- 1/4 of a 4 piece brick or 2 pieces of an 8 piece brick) make two pieces, one using 3/4 of your piece and the other smaller piece. Make two balls, slightly flatten the larger one and stack the smaller one on the larger one toward the front. Set aside.

Condition and roll out another piece into a small snake. Try to make it even all along the length. Cut it into 4 -6 inch (approx.) pieces. Lay them next to each other and pinch them together (as shown) in the center, this will make it nice and flat for your body to sit on. Put the body in the center and lightly press to get them to stick- then move them to a cookie sheet lined with tin foil.

Shape one leg at a time, gently pressing it against the body as you bring it up so it will stick. Make the curve and press the foot down on the foil, this will keep the knee shape. Repeat for all 8 legs. Take two small balls of white clay and press them on the head. Use a toothpick to make the holes for the eyeballs. Bake according to package directions. When they cool, spray a couple light coats of clear varnish for a shiny, finished look.

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Sewing tutorial: Pumkin pillow for Halloween

Pumkin pillow for Halloween

So I thought the Batty Felt Pillow needed a little companion. At first I thought I would follow up on some one's suggestion to make a white on white ghost pillow, or an orange on orange pumpkin pillow. I fiddled around with the orange felt and decided that I didn't want to do just another same old felt pillow that mimics exactly the bat one.

I thought the pumpkins needed a little something more. I found this orange polka-dot fabric and cut it out slightly larger than the felt pieces. Then I hand frayed the edges. The pumpkin furthest to the right I sewed up before I placed it on the black felt, the other two I sewed the pieces right on the black. I think the fraying is a little crazier on the other two, so if you make one of these- decide which look you like best and do that method. :)

To make the pillow, get a pillow form- mine was 12"X16" (they are 50% off at Joann's right now). Cut two pieces of black felt, one 13"X17" (to account for seam allowances) and the other 13"X24"- then cut the longer piece in half. Take those two pieces and on one 13" side, fold over about 1" and sew down. This creates the pieces for the envelop back- and since felt stretches- it will help keep your pillow cover from getting too misshapen.

To make your pumpkins, cut out a horizontal oval, with a stem on the top of one of the long sides. Cut a vertical oval about the same height (or slightly smaller) as the larger oval, but narrow. Use the pumpkin pieces as templates for the orange fabric and cut the shapes slightly larger than the felt. (I did not cut the stem into the fabric- it's just the oval).

To create the pumpkins sew the large oval to the large piece of fabric- around the edge- about 1/4" away. Then place the small felt oval on the small fabric piece and sew the two pieces together in the center of the large oval. Again- depending on the look you like it's probably easier to do this before sewing them on the black felt. You can fray the edges and trim them up, without having to try to get all the little strings off the black felt.

When you have them ready, place them on the front piece of the pillow and sew them where you like them. Keeping the right side of the front piece up, place the right side of the two back pieces DOWN on top- lining up the outer edges. (they should overlap each other by a few inches). Sew around all four sides of the pillow. Clip the corners, turn right side out- and stuff in the pillow form.

Enjoy your new pillow!

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